I’d like to start my first restaurant review blog with a warning: I was raised by the punniest man alive. Wait, make that two warnings: I can’t help but love cuteness. As disgusting as it may be, I am going to gush all over Frank. It is adorable. It is so cute I want to wrap it in a pink fuzzy blanket and cuddle with it. While watching Disney cartoons. With the sad parts cut out.
You may remember it starting with cupcakes. Hey Cupcake! here, Sugar Mama’s there, and Polkadots somewhere in the middle. A five-year-old’s dessert of choice, gone gourmet. These days, a lot of Austin eateries have taken hold of this thread and pulled out some very unique versions of food traditionally confined to a lunchbox.
Of course, we’ve seen the Chipotle White Cheddar Macaroni and Truffle Rosemary Fries offered at Trio (and similar spins on those childhood favorites pretty much everywhere), but my new favorite food joint specializes in a dish you’re not likely to spot on the menu at any steakhouse.
Not only does Frank live in the most adorable space in all of Austin (the old Starlite building) but hot dog have they got some scrumptious… hot dogs.
I started with the CANADIAN WAFFLE POUTINE: pleasantly salty brown gravy over firm yet giving cheese curds on a nest of crisp waffle fries. Belly-warming, like mashed potatoes. Then, WAFFLE FRY NACHOS. You know how when you’re at a music festival, and you’re sweaty and starving and have to miss some music to wait in line for 27 minutes and then when you get to the front of the line the vendor is sold out of what you had been looking forward to so you end up getting something else that just turn out to be soggy and disappointing? Frank’s WAFFLE FRY NACHOS are like the opposite of that. They are exactly what you were wishing for the whole 27 minutes of the line. They taste just as good as they look, crunchy fries topped with a mess of sloppy deliciousness; exactly like nachos are supposed to be. I was most excited for my first dog, the JACKALOPE (antelope and rabbit sausage, huckleberry compote, sriracha aioli, applewood smoked cheddar). It, of course, disappointed me greatly. Maybe my expectations were too high, maybe it’s no one’s fault. Or maybe it was the stringy, inconsistent texture of the frank; the surprising lack of flavor in the sriracha aioli; the bland compote that had a distinct scooped-from-the-jar consistency. The applewood smoked cheddar was tangy and moist with just a touch of aromatic smokyness. ROSEMARY’S PIGGY (housemade pork rosemary garlic sausage, roaster pepper bacon bleu cheese slaw, toasted pecan mayo) had well-balanced flavor. The rosemary was not over powering and the garlic was discreet. The slaw was timid. The pecan mayo was sweet and tangy. Overall, interesting, but I’m not craving another. Lastly, I had a PLAIN DOG with jalapeno slices and cheese. The hot pink dog was juicy. The bun was warm and doughy. My first bite was crisp and nostalgic; perfect.
If I were less gluttonous, I would portray my love of Frank as purely sausage-driven. However, since I am not, I will admit that every meal deserves both drink and dessert. Or, in the case of my meal at Frank, four drinks. One of which served as dessert.
The RED HEADED STRANGER is a bite of a sandwich with extra spicy salsa. Meaty and just a little sweet, heavy-handed with horseradish and garlic. Despite taste buds engulfed in flames, I did not put down my mason jar once. My GINGER CHERRY LIMEADE was thirst-quenching. It is soft and sweet, a flower girl in the Frank slaughterhouse. My waitress recommended the SUMMER SODA, which was excellent. Sweet and mellow vanilla with tangy grapefruit, almost like a creamsicle. My meal ended with a TRIPLE CROWN. The bacon flavor was more subtle than in the RED HEADED STRANGER, and with the ginger ale and lemon juice it reminded me more of a whiskey sour. It did have a bit of Saturday-morning hangover aftertaste: bacon and oj to cure too many whiskey shots. But that’s not a complaint.
So what do gourmet hot dogs mean? Culinarily speaking, of course. Next up: lunchables by Mario Batali?